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  • Garden Safety

    Clothing should be sturdy and provide adequate protection from the weather. Always wear closed-toed shoes while working in the garden.

    Tools should always be used properly, and only to do job for which they were intended. Hold long-handled tools below the waist with the sharp end pointed down. Always walk when carrying tools.

    Sun protection is extremely important! Wear sunscreen, a hat, and protective clothing to minimize sun exposure. Avoid 10:30 to 2:00 P.M. if possible.

    Stay hydrated! Bring ample drinking water with you to the garden, and make time for water breaks, especially when working in intense heat.

    Ticks are not usually present in the garden, but make a habit of checking yourself for ticks every time you spend time outdoors, just to be safe. Lyme disease is becoming a major health concern in Massachusetts.

    Mosquitoes are annoying and itchy, but can also spread disease. Look for all-natural bug repellent so that you do not cause yourself harm by exposure to dangerous chemicals.

    Bees are not aggressive and will normally leave humans alone unless seriously provoked. Provoking includes yelling, waving arms, and stomping, so it’s best to stay relaxed around bees. Never harm bees because they are very important pollinators in the garden.

    Spiders are excellent predators in the garden ecosystem. Leave them to do their job in peace and enjoy knowing that they are protecting you from pesky bugs.

    Poison ivy is easy to recognize if you remember the simple rhyme: “Leaves of three; leave it be!” If contact with poison ivy occurs, wash hands as soon as possible with strong soap or dish detergent to remove the oils. Do not touch eyes or mouth! Wash clothing as soon as possible.

    Some wild plants are poisonous to humans. Never eat anything unless you know exactly what it is.

    First Aid kits should be kept in the bins at each garden site to treat minor wounds. Wash them thoroughly and cover them to prevent infection. In an emergency, call 9-1-1.

  • The Best Way to Water

     

    • Focus on the root zone. Remember that it's the roots that need access to water, not the leaves. Wetting the foliage is a waste of water and can promote the spread of disease.

    • Water only when needed. Make sure to watch the weather, and reduce frequency when rainfall is abundant. Too much water can be just as damaging to plants as too little.

    • Water deeply and thoroughly. Lawns and annuals concentrate their roots in the top 6" of soil; for perennials, shrubs and trees, it's the top 12". In heavy soil, it may take hours for water to percolate down 6-12". Use your finger or a shovel to check the progress.

    • Water in the morning. If you do get moisture on the leaves, this gives them time to dry out. It's much more difficult for plant diseases to get a foothold when the foliage is dry.

    • Mulch everything. Mulch reduces surface runoff and slows evaporation from the soil.

    • Use the right tool. For efficient watering at the root zone, use a soaker hose

     

    Watering is of no value if the water runs down the outside of the root ball, leaving the roots at the core of the plant dry. This can happen if you water too quickly or apply too much water at once. Slower watering is usually more effective. The key is to ensure that water gets to the root zone

    “Plants need 1 inch of water per week”

    Although the "inch-­a-­week" recommendation is often cited as a rule of thumb, the truth is that plants vary widely in their water needs. Young seedlings and new transplants have limited root systems and need a consistent supply of moisture, so they may need daily watering if the weather is sunny and hot. Established trees and shrubs, on the other hand, may need supplemental watering only during extended dry spells because they have more extensive root systems. The amount of water a plant needs depends on a number of factors, including the type of plant, its stage of growth, type of soil, weather and time of year.

    The best way to water most plants is by applying enough to moisten the plant's entire root system, and then letting the soil dry out slightly before watering again. Apply water slowly so it's absorbed by the soil rather than running off — a soaker hose is ideal. Avoid daily light sprinklings, which encourage roots to grow near the soil surface where they're vulnerable to drying out.

    Rather than relying on a schedule, water plants when they need it.

  • This is a list where you can find all about the different types of bugs in the garden. Some of them are dangerous while others are beneficial to the garden. Many of them though, are neither harmful or beneficial to the garden. On the right you will find the picture of the bug and on the left, you will find the description of the bug.

     

     

    The good guys

    These bugs are harmless and may even be beneficial to the garden


    Earthworm

    The earthworm is reddish-grey in color and can be a few inches long. As the earthworm burrows, it consumes soil and can eat up to one third its body weight in a day.

    They are the garden’s best friend because they transport nutrients and minerals from below to the surface where the plants grow. Earthworms are a source of food for numerous animals, like birds, rats, and toads, and are frequently used as an aid in composting.


    Ladybugs

    Ladybugs appear as half-spheres, tiny, spotted, round or oval-shaped domes. They have short legs and antennae. Their distinctive spots and attractive colors are meant to make them unappealing to predators. Ladybugs eat aphids, which are small bugs that cluster around plant stems and leaves and cause damage.


    Butterfly

    A butterfly has different stages in its life cycle, starting as an egg and hatching into a larva or caterpillar. During this time, they seek out areas with food plants. It then turns into a pupa during the resting stage and afterwards emerges as an adult butterfly. Adult butterflies feed on fluids such as nectar from flowers.


    Bees

     

     

    Bees live in colonies; there are three types of bees in each colony: the queen, the worker bees, and the drones. The worker bee and the queen bee are both female, but only the queen bee can reproduce. All drones are male. Bumblebees are beneficial to gardens because they pollinate crops and plants. Honeybees produce honey from pollen and nectar of the plants they pollinate. They store the honey in honeycombs in their nests, which they use to feed their young in colder months.


    Ants

    Like bees, ants live in colonies and there are three types: the queen, the female workers, and the males. An ant can lift 20 times its own body weight. They can help to aerate the soil through their natural tunnelling movements. However, their colonies can arise in the garden and damage the root system of a plant.


    Praying Mantis

    A praying mantis disguises itself well among plants with a body that resembles leaves and stems. They can turn their triangular heads up to 180 degrees in search of an insect to eat. They have excellent eyesight, and they can see up to 18 meters (60 feet) away. They are not dangerous creatures (at least not to the humans) and their average lifespan is around 12 months.

     

     

    Some bad guys

    These bugs aren't exactly that friendly...


    Grub

    Grubs are white, soft bodied, and robust with a brown head. Heavy white grub infestations can destroy grass roots, causing the affected area to become spongy, which allows the surface soil to be rolled back like a piece of carpet.


    Tomato Hornworm

    They are 3-4 inches long at full-size. A black "horn" projects from the rear of the caterpillar. Tomato hornworms are voracious, munching entire leaves, small stems, and even parts of immature fruit. While they are most commonly associated with tomatoes, hornworms are also common pests of eggplants, peppers, and potatoes. Most likely, you'll notice the damage before you notice the hornworms, because their color helps them blend in so well with the plant foliage.


    Squash Bug

    The squash bug is ½ inch long with a brown/grey body and flat back. They leave behind yellow dots that turn to brown on plant leaves. This is caused by the bug sucking out all the vital nutrients from the plant leaves, leaving the plant to slowly starve.


    Aphid

    Aphids can be identified as tiny, soft-bodied, pear shaped insects, which come in a rainbow of colours, green, yellow, black, grey, red, purple and brown. They appear in clusters or groups on the stems and young leaves of plants. The damage they do to plants includes mutations and stunted growth in the new foliage that often appear as curling in the leaves, and poor blooms on flowering plants.

     

     

    Other interesting bugs

    These bugs are unique and many of them are neither beneficial nor detrimental to the garden


    Centipede

    Centipedes have a flattened body with as many as thirty legs. They can grow up to two inches long. They eat insects, spiders and other small animals. The venom they use will paralyze their prey so that it cannot move.


    Snail

    Snails are considered a pest because they nibble on leafy greens, but otherwise will not harm the garden. Land snails have two pairs of tentacles, with eyes on the tips of the longest pair. They slide along on a single ‘foot’ while releasing a bed of low-friction mucus and require a humid or wet environment to avoid drying out.


    Slugs

    Slugs are snails without shells. They are found in and need a moist environment in order to survive. As with snails, slugs are also considered a pest because they nibble on leafy greens, perhaps more often than snails.


    Earwig

    Earwigs are Nocturnalnocturnal; they often hide in small, moist crevices during the day, and are active at night, feeding on a wide variety of insects and plants. Damage to foliage, flowers, and various crops is commonly blamed on earwigs. Earwigs have five molts in the year before they become adults. They have pincer forceps which they use to hold prey. They are omnivorous and actively hunt for food, eating arthropods, plants, and ripe fruit.

    Beneficial Yellow Garden Spiders

    Spiders

    Garden spiders are likely not dangerous and prefer sunny places amongst flowers to construct their webs.


    Fruit Fly

    Fruit flies are attracted to ripe and rotting produce. The reproductive potential of fruit flies is enormous; given the opportunity, they will lay about 500 eggs. The entire lifecycle from egg to adult can be completed in about a week.

  • Garden Weeds

    Weeds are plants we didn’t mean to plant in a particular spot. They take up valuable space, nutrients and sunshine that we’d rather have for plants we want to grow. Some are more persistent than others while some are kind of pretty or even edible. Not all weeds look the same, so it is important to remember that Weeds come in different shapes and sizes. Some weeds even take the appearance of plants.

    “When weeding, the best way to make sure you are removing a weed and not a valuable plant is to pull on it. If it comes out of the ground easily, it is a valuable plant.”

     

    Lambs quarters

    Leaves are edible; older leaves have white undersides.

     

    Do not compost  when plants have developed seeds.

     

     

    Crabgrass

    Pull young seedlings from moist soil, or cultivate when the soil is dry.

    Mow weedy areas near the garden to reduce the reseeding of crabgrass.

     

     

    Curly Dock

    Anchored by a branched taproot.

    New green leaves that emerge in spring often are tinged with red.

    A tall seed stalk appears in the summer and dig out mature plants with a digging fork.

     

     

    Dock 

    Appears in the garden in large spreading groups.

    It is a coarse-leaved plant that has deep, branching taproots, which will keep regrowing after being hoed out or lightly dug up.

     

     

    Mullein

    Mullein rosettes are easy to pull up since they have shallow roots.  They have soft leaves and are sometimes called “Lamb’s Ears.”

    In their second year, they send up a tall central stalk crowned with yellow flowers in midsummer.

     

     

    Nutsedge

    Hand-pulling is the most effective way to remove this weed. 

    These plants will often break off at the soil surface allowing regrowth and tuber development to continue so be sure to remove the entire root.   Look for the small “nut” in the root.

     

     

    Purslane

    Young leaves and stems are edible. Tiny flowers at stem tips quickly give way to seedpods.

    They can remain in soil for years so pull young seedlings or cultivate older plants with a shovel on hot, sunny days.

     

     

    Queen Anne’s Lace

    It is biennial, which means it will live for two years. It will spend the first year growing bigger and then bloom the second year. It’s seedlings look just like carrots, as it’s in the same family and also has a tap root like a carrot.

     

     

    Pigweed

    They have pinkish-red roots. 

    Some pests eat pigweed so gardeners will leave them as a distraction from eating the vegetables and pull them out before they produce seeds.

     

     

    Shepherd’s Purse

    Young plants are easy to pull and are good for composting.

     

     

    Wood Sorrel 

    The plant has heart-shaped leaves, folded through the middle, that occur in groups of three atop a reddish brown stalk.

    Leaves are edible and tasty. Although they look similar to clovers, they are not related.

     

     

    Quack Grass

    Quackgrass spreads by underground rhizomes - thick white roots that grow along just under the soil surface.  It has thin, flat, bright ashy green leaf blades. The creeping rhizomes are so tough they can grow through a potato tuber, or push up through asphalt pavement.